SURFACE PREPARATION FOR BONDING, COATING OR PAINTING
The success of any bonding, coating, or painting project
depends largely on how well the surface is prepared. While the proper choice of a coating is important, a failure is
almost always due to improper surface preparation rather than a failure of the
coating materials.
The following guidelines should help you determine the
proper preparation of most surfaces.
Where there are special requirements for a particular type of coating
material (epoxy, polyester, alkyd, polyurethane, etc.) these will be noted in
the preparation description.
While there are many acceptable methods of surface
preparation, we have attempted to choose those which are the best for each
particular material.
ABS Plastics
- Degrease
with mineral spirits.
- Abrade
with emery cloth or Scotchbrite pad
- Degrease
again
Aluminum
- Degrease
with solvent-type degreaser or TSP
- Abrade
with 80 grit emery cloth
- Degrease
again
- For
bonding, no other treatment is required.
For coating or painting, apply zinc chromate primer or vinyl wash
primer per the manufacturer’s recommendation.
Ceramics
See Glass
Concrete
- Degrease
with TSP
- Acid
etch with 5% hydrochloric acid until a surface similar to 100 grit
sandpaper is achieved
- Rinse
with plenty of clean water
Note: Repeat steps 2 & 3 as
often as needed
Copper, Brass & Bronze
- Degrease
with solvent-type degreaser or TSP
- Abrade
with emery cloth
- Etch
a mixture of: .75 Gl 42% Ferric
Chloride
1.50 Gl Concentrated Nitric Acid
10.00 Gl Water
- Rinse
in clean water
Fiberglass
- Degrease
with mineral spirits, MEK solvent or TSP
- Abrade
with sandpaper or other abrasive medium
- Remove
dust with tack rag
- Do
not wipe with acetone
Galvanized Metals
- Degrease
with TSP
- Abrade
with emery cloth
- Recoat
immediately
Note: Polyesters are NOT SUITABLE for bonding or
coating of galvanized materials.
Glass
- Degrease
with solvent-type degreaser or TSP
- Frost
with wet / dry sandpaper and water
- Warm
for 30 minutes at 212°F
in oven or boiling water
- Coat
or bond before glass reaches room temperature
Natural
Rubber (Latex)
- Treat
the surface for 5 – 10 minutes with concentrated sulfuric acid
- Rinse
with clean cold water followed by clean hot water
- Dry
thoroughly
Note: Flex
the rubber – the appearance of small hairline cracks indicates the rubber is
ready for bonding. Repeat treatment if
necessary.
Nylon
See ABS Plastics
Plexiglass
See ABS Plastics
Polycarbonate
See ABS Plastics
Polyethylene & Polypropylene
Note: These
materials are generally not able to be coated or bonded. However, some limited success has been
reported using the following technique:
- With
the blue part of a flame from a blow torch, lightly flame until
shiny. Take care not to melt the
surface. This method has proven
most effective for bonding only.
Plolystyrene
See ABS Plastics
PVC
See ABS Plastics
Steel – Mild
- Degrease
with solvent-type degreaser or TSP
- Abrade
with emery cloth
- Etch
with phosphoric acid
- Rinse
in clean water
- Dry
thoroughly and recoat immediately
Steel – Stainless
- Degrease
with trichloroethylene
- Etch
with mixture of:
Oxalic Acid 18lb.
Concentrated Sulfuric Acid 1 gal.
Water 15
gal.
- Rinse
in clean water
- Dry
thoroughly before cleaning
Synthetic Rubber
See Natural Rubber
Note: If the sulfuric acid treatment fails to
produce the hairline cracks on synthetic rubber, repeat the process using
concentrated nitric acid.
Wood
- Abrade
with sandpaper
- Remove
dust
Zinc & Zinc Alloys
See Galvanized Metals
WARNING! SOME OF THE CHEMICALS SUGGESTED IN THE ABOVE
PROCEDURES ARE HAZARDOUS! THE ORDER OF
MIXING OF SOME FORMULAS IS CRITICAL.
GET DETAILED
INSTRUCTIONS FROM A QUALIFIED CHEMIST BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO MIX FORMULAS
CONTAINING ACIDS.
WHEN MIXING ACIDS
AND WATER, ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER AND NEVER WATER TO ACID.